SkinCare throughout History
Personal anecdote
Working primarily as a massage and bodywork therapist, I wasn’t always enamored by the intersections of skincare, bodywork, bodycare, and cosmetics. I am passionate about soft tissue manipulation, but what could lathering product on the skin only to rub it off moments later even do? Early in my career, I’d yet to experience my 1st professional facial with a trained esthetician, so it wasn’t until my first full-body scrub: that I’d even considered one.
Working at a destination resort during each coming season was new treatment training. I’d always consider skincare to be this fufu indulgence. Let me tell you, I didn’t know what I was missing; we prepped an apricot sugar exfoliant. I performed the service on a colleague and hoped my continued education requirement would be satisfied. I recall balking, “What a waste of time, we rub it all over, what a mess, no wonder we need aprons, all that just to spray it off… where’s the value in that.” To my dismay, our trainer insisted we each demonstrate proficiency with the service and experience the benefits 1st hand.
Reluctance is an understatement. I was literally angered to have what I perceived as my time wasted in such a way. This one treatment overview, protocol, preparation, execution, and experience took up half of my day off. I’d become accustomed to being a guinea pig for student demos.
Classrooms always need a model for technique demonstration. Participating in a sports massage or Thai stretch always made sense because my body needed it. I thought this was an extravagance as I examined my youthful skin, although screw it, I was getting paid to bullshit. So I disrobed and hopped on the table. Immediately I pictured nails on a chalkboard, thinking about the apricot kernels against my skin. I should have known better.
I had dozens of colleagues praising this regime, but I wasn’t having it. As the product initially touched my skin, I recoiled due to its cool-to-the-touch sensation. Then I felt the brisk friction as it was applied and agitated. I was pleasantly surprised it wasn’t nearly as abrasive across my body as it had felt in my hands when I’d worked it into my partner moments earlier. It wasn’t until the rinse that I realized.
Wow, I felt smooth as a baby, and surprisingly, even though I didn’t get a therapeutic breakdown of my knots, and stretched about like a pretzel. At the end of the session, I genuinely felt like a million bucks. We were gifted the remaining product. I immediately went home and had my lady hop on the table. I recall she felt invigorated and was very impressed that her already soft, smooth, youthful skin was now even more silky-smooth, moisturized, and clear. Full body exfoliation has been part of my skincare regime ever since. It’s not an indulgence; a routine scrub is mandatory, and to this day, I let all the fellas know.
The principles of massage and skincare often overlap, and integrating these areas has led to a comprehensive approach to wellness and self-care.
Here is how these fields relate:
Skin Health: The skin is the body’s largest organ and protects us from environmental factors. Regular bodywork such as massage can improve circulation and benefit skin health by delivering nutrients to skin cells, our body’s largest organ. Also, certain massage oils or lotions used during bodywork can help the skin, such as moisturizing, reducing inflammation, or providing antioxidants.
Detoxification: Massage can stimulate the lymphatic system, which helps detoxify the body. This may lead to more clear and healthier skin.
Relaxation and Stress Relief: Stress can manifest physically and exacerbate skin conditions like acne, eczema, and psoriasis. Massage therapy is known to reduce stress levels, which can indirectly improve skin health.
Product Absorption: Bodywork can enhance the absorption of skincare products. Massage helps to increase blood flow and opens up the pores, allowing for better absorption of the beneficial ingredients in these products.
Holistic Care: Both bodywork and skincare often emphasize a holistic approach to health and wellness. This can include focusing on lifestyle factors such as diet, exercise, sleep, and mental health, which can impact both the skin’s condition and the body’s overall health.
Aesthetics and Confidence: Lastly, both fields contribute to an individual’s aesthetics and confidence. A well-performed massage can help a client feel more comfortable and confident in their body, while good skincare and cosmetics can help enhance an individual’s appearance and boost self-esteem.
Integrating skincare and cosmetics into a bodywork practice offers clients a more comprehensive set of services that address their overall wellness, appearance, and confidence. So for my clients, I will always offer skincare consultations and referrals to my qualified esthetician colleagues for facials. While providing bodycare services, we always use the highest quality skincare products for services like body scrubs and wraps.
Ancient History of Skincare
Skincare has been an integral part of human culture for thousands of years. Pursuing beauty and youth is a timeless endeavor, and throughout history, different civilizations have relied on natural ingredients to maintain healthy skin. From ancient Egypt to modern-day South Korea, people have employed various methods to care for their skin, safeguard it from the sun, and enhance its appearance.
The use of cosmetics and beauty products is a practice that dates back thousands of years, with roots in every culture worldwide. These products served multiple purposes, from beauty enhancement, religious traditions, and ritualistic customs to war paints for intimidation and identification. As time passed, skincare products have advanced to include more sophisticated formulations prioritizing scientific research and technology. In this article, we will be nostalgic and delve into the fascinating history of skin care, including its most intriguing practices, products, and influential figures, as well as how it has evolved.
Many Indigenous cultures worldwide have used (and continue to use) plant-based dyes and pigments for body painting, often for ceremonial or ritualistic purposes. As for the processes used to isolate various ingredients, most were rudimentary and relied on manual labor. For instance, kohl, used since prehistory and still prevalent in many parts of the world today, was typically made from heavy metals like lead ore, copper, and antimony. These ingredients were ground into a fine powder, sometimes with other ingredients like soot or dark pigments. Similarly, red ochre was made by grinding iron-rich rocks.
Ancient Mesopotamians valued cleanliness and skin health; many skincare practices were tied to their religious beliefs. They used natural resources like olive and sesame oil to moisturize and protect the skin. They were also one of the first civilizations to record soap-making recipes. Many African cultures widely use Shea butter, a moisturizing and skin-protecting agent; clay and natural pigments and oils were used. In Morocco, for instance, argan oil has been used for centuries for its nourishing properties.
Native Americans crushed minerals and berries utilizing various preparations. The Mayans, Aztecs, and other Mesoamerican civilizations used multiple plants and minerals in their skincare routines. For example, they used achiote (Bixa Orellana) for its skin-protecting and beautifying properties. The Mayans also believed in the therapeutic properties of sweat baths, similar to modern saunas, which they used for purification and health purposes.
The concepts of Yin and Yang and the Five Elements Theory influenced Eastern skincare. They used various herbs, animal products, and minerals, like powdered jade, in their skincare routines. Pearl powder, for instance, was believed to brighten the skin and was used by empresses and noblewomen.
Traditional Polynesian skin care involves using various oils, like coconut and kukui nut oil, for moisturizing and protection against the sun and sea. On the Indian subcontinent, skincare emerged as part of Ayurvedic medicine, with herbs and other natural ingredients used to treat skin conditions and maintain healthy skin. Herodotus recorded that the Scythians used hemp seeds in steam baths for cleansing & used various botanicals and dairy products in their skincare.
Delving far back into antediluvian myth looking at skin care. There have been many tales of magical items or substances that could confer eternal youth and stunning beauty. In Chinese mythology, the immortals consume the Peaches of Immortality due to their mystic virtue of conferring longevity on all who eat them. Across Anatolia, Ambrosia was the sustenance of the gods, often depicted as conferring longevity or immortality upon whoever consumes it.
Specific figures have been renowned for their beauty in various historical texts and myths.
Helen of Troy: The wife of Menelaus, king of Sparta, was considered the most beautiful woman the world had ever seen. Her abduction by her lover Paris led to the Trojan War.
Cleopatra: The last active ruler of the Ptolemaic Kingdom of Egypt, was known for her legendary beauty, charisma, and relationships with Julius Caesar and Mark Antony.
Nefertiti: An Egyptian queen and the wife of Akhenaten, an Egyptian Pharaoh. Nefertiti is most known for her beauty, as depicted in the famous bust discovered in 1912.
Phryne: The ancient, famed courtesan known for her extraordinary beauty, she was even the model for the statue of Aphrodite by the sculptor Praxiteles.
Yang Guifei: One of the Four Beauties of ancient China, she was a beloved consort of Emperor Xuanzong during the Tang Dynasty.
Adonis: In Greek mythology, Adonis was a youth of remarkable beauty that both Aphrodite and Persephone were in love with him.
Narcissus: Another figure from mythology, Narcissus, was a hunter of extraordinary beauty who died after falling in love with his reflection in a pool of water.
Antiquity (3000 BCE to 306 BCE)
The Egyptians are often credited as the original skincare pioneers and the most famous historical cosmetics users. Skincare was an essential part of daily life, using natural ingredients such as olive oil, honey, and aloe vera to moisturize and protect their skin from the harsh climate. The use of kohl for eyeliner and eyeshadow, red ochre for blush and lipstick, and henna for nail and hair dye were all popular. Cosmetics were applied for aesthetic appeal, religious rituals, spirituality, and medicinal purposes. They believed that makeup had magical powers and that the gods would protect those who wore it.
Pharaohs and high-ranking officials use oils, ointments, and other natural ingredients to maintain healthy, youthful-looking skin. They also used exfoliating scrubs made from salt, honey, and other natural ingredients to keep their skin smooth.
The ancient Etruscans were a civilization that lived in the area of modern-day Tuscany, in Italy, from the 8th century BCE. Precursors to the Romans who would come after them had a strong bathing culture for cleanliness and relaxation. They built elaborate bathhouses and used natural hot springs, believed to have healing properties. For example, the famous hot springs at Saturnia were known and used by the Etruscans for their therapeutic benefits. They used various oils and unguents for skin care, animal fats, and honey.
The Etruscans practiced body art, including tattooing and possibly body painting. Some depictions show Etruscan women with designs on their skin, although it's unclear if these were tattoos, temporary markings, or artistic embellishments. Physical fitness was essential to the Etruscans, and they engaged in various sports and exercises to maintain their health. Their diet was rich in fruits, vegetables, grains, and seafood, which would have contributed to overall health and skin condition. Perfumed oils were used for fragrance and ritual, and various tools for personal grooming, such as tweezers, razors, and mirrors, were found in Etruscan tombs.
Nearly a Millennia later, Romans used skincare with natural oils and herbs to keep their skin soft and supple. Both sincerely appreciated personal hygiene and beauty, and they developed a variety of skincare routines and cosmetic products. Their bathhouses, known as thermae in Rome and balaneia in Greece, were more than just washing places; they were also centers for socializing, exercise, and beauty treatments.
Some of the bodycare practices one might indulge in an ancient bathhouse included the use of a strigil. Instead of soap, which was not yet commonly used, the Romans would apply oil to their skin and then scrape it off with a strigil, a unique curved tool. This process would remove dirt, sweat, and dead skin cells, often done before entering the communal baths. Various cosmetic treatments were performed in bathhouses. These could include the application of facial masks, usually made from ingredients like honey, eggs, or oats, and using natural substances to lighten the skin or improve its appearance. They removed body hair; this could be done through various methods, such as plucking, threading, waxing, or using depilatory creams made from resin or pitch. Perfumes and scented oils would often be applied to the skin after bathing. The Romans, in particular, were known for their love of strong fragrances, and they imported a variety of exotic perfumes from throughout their empire. The application of makeup was also a common practice. This could include using kohl for eye makeup, rouge made from red ochre for the cheeks, and various substances for lipstick. However, the Romans generally favored a more natural look than the Egyptians, and excessive makeup was often seen as vulgar or associated with certain professions like acting or prostitution. Hair care was another essential aspect of bathhouse beauty routines.
Hair was often washed with water and cleansed with a mixture of ashes and fats (a rudimentary form of shampoo). Various oils and tonics were also used to condition the hair and scalp. These practices reflect a sophisticated understanding of skincare and beauty; many have parallels in modern spa and beauty treatments. Using water for therapeutic purposes, often referred to as hydrotherapy, dates back thousands of years and spans numerous cultures.
The earliest evidence of communal bathing comes from the Indus Valley Civilization, around 2500 BCE. Later, both Ancient Greeks and Romans recognized the therapeutic effects of water. They built elaborate bathhouses near natural springs along the Silk Road, some of which still stand today, like the Roman baths at Bath in England.
The Silk Road was a network of trade routes that facilitated cultural, commercial, and technological exchange between the East and the West. The Silk Road is often said to have been established when the Han dynasty of China started to trade with the West, officially around 130 BCE & flourished under the Roman Empire and the Parthian Empire in Persia. Rome, Persia, India, and China exchanged goods, ideas, and technologies.
The Silk Road profoundly impacted the cultures and civilizations it connected throughout its existence. Ideas, religions, philosophies, arts, languages, and technologies were shared, influencing societies from the Mediterranean to China. Regarding cosmetics and skincare, ingredients, recipes, and techniques have been among the goods and knowledge shared along these routes. For example, the use of henna for body art and cosmetics in India spread to the Middle East and North Africa. In contrast, the Greek knowledge of medicine and cosmetics influenced Roman practices, and both spread further East. Conversely, ingredients like silk and rice from China, and various spices and herbs from India and the Middle East, made their way West.
Ancient Greece through Ptolemaic Egypt (800 BCE to 30 BCE)
Cleopatra was documented in ancient texts as using various natural ingredients to maintain her complexion. Her skincare regimen included bathing in donkey's milk, believed to keep her skin soft and youthful, containing lactic acid, a natural exfoliant that can brighten and smooth the skin. She also used honey, a natural humectant that can hydrate and soothe the skin, and aloe vera, which has anti-inflammatory properties to help calm irritated skin. These beauty rituals have inspired many skincare products that are still popular today.
The Greeks had elaborate beauty rituals; they valued beauty and hygiene, and their skincare routines reflected this. They used fragrant oils, such as rose, lavender, and rosemary, to scent their skin and hair, and applied natural masks made from honey, yogurt, and clay to cleanse and exfoliate. The use of chalk or lead face powder was every day. Cosmetics were also used in religious ceremonies and to signify social status. Olympic athletes rubbed olive oil on their bodies as a natural moisturizer to enhance their performance and protect their skin from the sun.
They developed a range of natural ingredients to improve the appearance and health of their skin. One of their most famous skincare ingredients was olive oil, used for cooking and skincare. Olive oil contains antioxidants and vitamin E, which can help protect and moisturize the skin & created skincare treatments that can cleanse, exfoliate, and soothe the skin.
The ancients made significant contributions to beauty and wellness. They developed natural ingredients and practices influencing many modern skincare products and treatments. By exploring their skincare practices and products, we can appreciate the long history and rich skincare tradition and continue to innovate and improve the beauty and wellness field.
Regarding side effects and skin issues such as acne, it's hard to say definitively, as diagnostic terminology and understanding of skin conditions differ from today's standards. However, given that many natural ingredients (like honey, olive oil, etc.) have antimicrobial and moisturizing properties, it's plausible that they helped mitigate some skin issues.
In many religious traditions, makeup or markings on the body serve symbolic or ritualistic purposes. Here are a few examples:
Bindi: In Hinduism, a bindi is a colored dot worn on the center of the forehead. Traditionally, it's red and is worn by married women, but unmarried women and men can also wear it. The bindi is thought to enhance concentration and protect against bad energy. It's also a cultural symbol of beauty.
Ash: In Christianity, specifically Catholicism, ashes are applied to the foreheads of believers on Ash Wednesday in the shape of a cross. This signifies penitence and the mortality of human beings. The ashes are typically obtained by burning the palms used in the previous year's Palm Sunday celebrations.
Tilaka: In Hinduism and Vaishnavism, a tilaka is a mark worn usually on the forehead, sometimes on other parts of the body. Tilakas are applied with a paste made from sandalwood, clay, or ashes, and their form and color are used to denote which particular sect, temple, or form of worship the wearer is dedicated to.
Kohl (Surma): In Islam, the use of kohl is sunnah, following the traditions of Prophet Muhammad. It's believed to be medicinal, protecting the eyes from harmful glare and other potential dangers.
Sak Yant Tattoos: Some sects of Buddhism, a tradition in Southeast Asia, particularly in Thailand, use these tattoos as a form of religious protection and devotion. Monks today often render them using traditional methods.
These practices are deeply embedded in the religious and cultural traditions from which they come, and they carry a significance beyond mere aesthetics or personal adornment.
The collapse of the Western Roman Empire in 476 CE ends the Golden Age of Classical antiquity. This impacts many aspects of society, including the use and development of cosmetics and skincare. Marred by the Dark Ages, the Early Middle Ages was a period of great suffering and loss due to various plagues, wars, and famines. The West's economic, intellectual, and cultural decline lasted several centuries. The emergence of puritanical religious powerhouses would go on to suppress indigenous and ancient wisdom. This did impact many areas of life, including medicine and personal care. It doesn't account for the prosperity and progress seen in other regions during the same period, like the Islamic Golden Age in the Middle East or the Tang and Song dynasties in China.
Middle Ages (500 CE to 1500 CE)
Europe
Much of the knowledge from the classical era, such as the Romans' advanced medical and cosmetic practices, was lost or suppressed during the Middle Ages. Skincare took a backseat to religious and political turmoil in Europe, and hygiene was often deplorable. The Church held significant influence over societal norms and standards. The Church generally considered excessive attention to personal appearance, including the use of cosmetics, to be vain and potentially sinful. General cultural attitudes of the time viewed cosmetics as immoral or deceitful. Starting as early as 1184 CE often conflated the use of herbal remedies, and the practice of medicine by women is associated with witchcraft, particularly during the later witch hunts. Many beauty practices were condemned, and those who used cosmetics could be accused of witchcraft, particularly during the height of the witch hunts in the 15th to 17th centuries. Inquisitions to root out apostates and heretics decimated people tried in masse as witches. Many women skilled in herbs and natural remedies, including those used for skincare and makeup, were persecuted during witch hunts in the late Middle Ages and Early Modern period. It was a time when any deviation from the norm, including using "strange" or "exotic" herbs, could lead to suspicion of witchcraft. However, it's important to note that not all use of natural remedies or cosmetics was suppressed during this time. The knowledge and practices varied greatly depending on the specific time and place. Furthermore, while many people were tragically persecuted, it would be an oversimplification to say it was all lost.
In Europe, skincare and even general cleanliness were limited to wealthy individuals. Some women used rose water and vinegar to tone their skin and combat acne. A few herbal remedies, such as chamomile and calendula, were used to soothe irritation and inflammation. Many skincare products were made from natural ingredients such as herbs and flowers during the Middle Ages. Many of these natural ingredients were also believed to have medicinal properties and were used to treat various skin conditions. Rosewater is a liquid made from water and rose petals. It has been a beauty product for thousands of years, dating back to ancient Egypt. Rosewater is often used as a toner due to its mild astringent properties. It helps to balance the skin's pH, reduce redness and inflammation, hydrate the skin, and remove traces of oil and dirt. It's also known for its soothing and rejuvenating effects, as well as its pleasant fragrance.
Witch hazel is a plant native to North America and parts of Asia. The leaves and bark produce a liquid, also known as witch hazel. It's a natural astringent that can tighten the skin, reduce oiliness, and shrink pores. Witch hazel also has anti-inflammatory properties and can soothe irritated skin. However, it's worth noting that some forms of witch hazel contain alcohol, which can dry out the skin.
During the Middle Ages, the Catholics profoundly influenced personal hygiene and body care. Monastic life, in particular, was characterized by routines and rituals that extended to personal care. Monastic rules often included provisions for bathing, although the frequency varied widely. In some monastic orders, monks were expected to bathe weekly, while in others, bathing was infrequent and often tied to specific religious observances, such as Easter. However, public bathhouses were shared in many cities and towns in the early Middle Ages and used by religious and laypeople.
Incense was used in religious ceremonies every day, and many sacred texts of the time refer to the use of fragrances. Holy water, often infused with salt and sometimes herbs or oils, was also common. This was used for blessings and purification rituals rather than for personal care. Monks often had specific hair and beard care regulations. The tonsure, where the top of the head is shaved, was a common practice among monks. Beards were often kept clean and neatly trimmed. Fasting and abstaining from certain foods or drinks were standard practices. These were seen as ways to purify the body and spirit and may have indirectly affected skin health.
Catholic attitudes towards personal care and hygiene evolved throughout the Middle Ages. In the later Middle Ages, for example, there was a growing suspicion of bathing due to plague and outbreaks of suspected legionnaires disease, in part to concerns about the moral dangers of nudity and luxury. This led to a decline in bathing practices in some areas, which was only reversed with the medical and scientific advancements of the Renaissance and later periods.
The Middle East
During the Middle Ages, societies in the Middle East were advanced in many aspects of culture and science, including cosmetics and skincare. This region, mainly where Islamic culture was dominant, had a rich tradition of skincare and beauty treatments, influenced by earlier civilizations in the area and the Islamic emphasis on cleanliness and personal care.
Public baths, or Hammams, were widespread in the Middle East during the Middle Ages. These were not just places for cleaning but also socializing and relaxation. Exfoliation and massages were standard practices in hammams. Olive and sesame oils were popular for skin moisturization. Creams made from beeswax, rosewater, and various oils were also used. Perfumes were highly valued in Middle Eastern societies. Ingredients like musk, ambergris, frankincense, myrrh, rose, and jasmine were commonly used in perfumes. Aleppo (Syria) and Nablus (Palestine) were famous for their high-quality soaps made from olive oil and lye, often perfumed with bay laurel oil or other fragrances.
The Middle Ages in the Middle East also saw some of the earliest forms of cosmetic surgery. The Persian physician Al-Zahrawi (known in the West as Abulcasis) wrote an extensive medical encyclopedia in the 10th century that included sections on cosmetic treatments like removing freckles and scars, coloring the hair, and even early forms of liposuction. These traditions have had a lasting impact, influencing modern skincare and cosmetics.
Asia the Tang & Song Dynasties
In the East, The Tang (618-907 CE) and Song (960-1279 CE) dynasties were periods of significant cultural, technological, and scientific growth in China. During these eras, cosmetics and skincare were ordinary and essential to social customs and status.
Women during the Tang dynasty valued a white, smooth complexion. As such, they used face powders made from substances like rice powder to lighten the skin. Rouge (also known as blusher) made from cinnabar was used to add a touch of color to the cheeks. The shape and color of eyebrows were of great importance. Women used dyes and pigments to darken and shape their eyebrows. They often plucked their natural eyebrows and painted new ones using a mixture of gum Arabic, gelatin, soot, and pig's bile. Lipstick was commonly used, and its color was seen as a status symbol. Brighter colors were generally reserved for the upper classes. The ingredients often included beeswax, scented oils, and pigments from plants or minerals. Men and women used perfumes and fragrant oils liberally. Elements such as musk, amber, and sandalwood were popular.
During the Song Dynasty, cosmetics became even more widespread, and cosmetic boxes or cases became common for women. These boxes often contained face powders, rouge, lip balms, eyebrow pencils, and hairpins. Skincare routines included washing the face with rice water, using facial masks made from ingredients like ground mung beans, and applying various creams and ointments. Haircare was also important, and women used multiple oils and treatments to keep their hair glossy and healthy. Hairstyles were elaborate and often included hairpins and accessories made from gold, silver, jade, or pearls.
Bathing was essential to maintaining cleanliness and beauty. Public bathhouses were shared, offering various services such as massages and skin treatments. Although not a cosmetic or skincare practice, it's worth noting that foot binding began during the Song Dynasty. This excruciating practice was seen as a mark of beauty and status, although it caused severe long-term damage to the feet. Overall, the Tang and Song dynasties were periods of significant advancement in cosmetic and skincare practices in China, many of which continue to influence modern beauty standards and procedures.
Persia
Another pioneer of skincare from ancient times was Avicenna, a Persian physician who lived in the 10th century. Avicenna was known for his contributions to medicine, including his work on dermatology and skincare. He wrote about the importance of keeping the skin clean and moisturized, and he developed a range of natural ingredients to improve the appearance and health of the skin. Some of his most famous skincare ingredients included rose water, which can help hydrate and soothe the skin, and sandalwood, which can help reduce inflammation and prevent acne. In this time frame (7th to 14th century CE), the Silk Road experienced both its apex and its decline.
Between The Tang dynasty in China, the Abbasid Caliphate in the Middle East, and the Byzantine Empire in the Eastern Mediterranean, Eurasian was connected overland with stable trade routes, contributing to the Silk Road's golden age. The Mongol Empire in the 13th century further facilitated and secured trade along the Silk Road. But sea trade became more profitable and practical in the late 15th century CE with the discovery of a sea route from Europe to Asia.
Spanish explorer Juan Ponce de León was said to have sought The Fountain of Youth, a legendary spring that supposedly restores the youth of anyone who drinks or bathes in its waters. The story became particularly associated with Florida in the early 1500s, though this tale is more myth than fact.
Renaissance
Europe (1400 CE to 1600 CE)
As Europe moved into the Renaissance, societal attitudes shifted, and the use of cosmetics increased among the upper classes. However, the Church still held a significant influence, and makeup was often used sparingly and subtly, if at all.
The Renaissance marked a revival of art, science, and culture, and skincare became more sophisticated. The use of cosmetics increased, with lead-based white face powder and red lead lipstick being popular among the upper classes. Italian women used a blend of honey and egg whites to create a temporary facelift, and French women applied fragrant pomades made from animal fat to their hair.
In the Renaissance, the Italian noble person Catherine de' Medic was considered a skincare pioneer. She is credited with introducing a range of beauty and skincare practices to the French court, including perfumes, makeup, and hair styling. Catherine also introduced the use of gloves to protect the hands from the sun, and she was known to bathe in milk and honey to soften and smooth the skin.
The age-old human desire to maintain youth and beauty. And in a way, they've shaped the modern beauty industry's marketing tactics. Many skincare and cosmetic companies promote their products as "elixirs of youth," with promises to reduce signs of aging, rejuvenate the skin, and maintain a youthful appearance.
Pre-Industrialization
Before the Industrial Revolution, cosmetics were handmade from various natural sources. While the specific ingredients and methods varied greatly depending on the region and era, here are a few examples:
Red Ochre: This natural clay pigment creates blush and lipstick. The ochre was ground into a fine powder and often mixed with animal fat or vegetable oils to create a spreadable paste.
White Lead: Used as a face powder to achieve a pale, "noble" complexion, white lead was made by corroding sheets of lead with vinegar, then grinding the resulting product into a fine powder.
Henna: is derived from the Lawsonia Inermis plant or henna tree. It is particularly well-known for its use in temporary body art for dyeing skin, hair, and fabrics. The leaves were dried and then crushed into a fine powder, mixed with water to create a paste. This paste was applied to the skin and hair, leaving a reddish-brown stain.
Beeswax and Olive Oil: The ancients often used these two ingredients to create a kind of early cold cream. The beeswax was melted, mixed with the oil, and then cooled and hardened into a solid but spreadable cream.
Egg Whites: In the Elizabethan era, egg whites were sometimes used as an early "setting spray" to help makeup stay in place. They could also be used to create a glossy finish on the skin.
Saffron: Used by the ancient Persians, saffron was soaked in water to create a solution that could be used as a hair dye.
Victorian England (1837 CE to 1901 CE)
The Age of Enlightenment changed attitudes toward cosmetics. The Church's influence waned in many areas, and makeup became widely used, especially among aristocrats. However, the Victorian era saw a return to more conservative attitudes, and makeup was often considered inappropriate for respectable women. Instead, skincare routines focused on maintaining a clear, pale complexion.
During the 18th and 19th centuries, skincare pioneers like Madame du Barry and Helena Rubinstein made significant contributions to the field. Madame du Barry was the official mistress of King Louis XV of France and was known for her beauty and charm. She developed a range of skin care treatments, including a face cream made from white wax and almond oil. Helena Rubinstein, a Polish-American entrepreneur, founded one of the world's first cosmetics companies and developed a range of innovative skincare products customized for different skin types.
Moving from natural, organic, and shamanistic traditions to the commercialized synthetic modern industry was gradual. As societies grew and industrialized, the demand for cosmetics increased. The 18th and 19th centuries industrial revolution allowed mass production of beauty products. Additionally, advances in chemistry and biology led to the development of new synthetic compounds that could be used in cosmetics. Economic factors also drove this shift, as synthetic ingredients are often cheaper and easier to produce on a large scale. However, in recent years, there's been a resurgence in the interest in organic, natural products, fueled by growing awareness of synthetic chemicals' potential health and environmental impacts.
In the 19th century, advancements in science and technology led to the development of more advanced skincare products skincare became more scientific and commercialized with the rise of chemists and beauty companies. Many of these products contained synthetic ingredients, such as petroleum jelly and lanolin, used to moisturize and protect the skin from damage.
The Victorians prized a pale complexion as a sign of wealth and refinement and used lead-based cosmetics and parasols to shield themselves from the sun. Cold creams, invented by Helena Rubinstein and Elizabeth Arden, became famous for their moisturizing and cleansing properties.
Indeed throughout history, many cosmetics have contained dangerous substances, some of which are still found in certain products today. Here are a few examples:
Lead: Lead is a common ingredient in many cosmetics, including face powders, kohl eyeliners, and hair dyes. It's a potent neurotoxin that can cause various health problems, including developmental issues in children, kidney damage, and even death. The dangers of lead in cosmetics are well-known today, and its use is banned or restricted in many countries.
Mercury: Mercury was used in many skin-lightening creams and soaps, particularly in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Mercury is a potent neurotoxin that can cause kidney problems, skin rashes, mood swings, memory loss, and other health issues.
Acid: Various acids, including arsenic and hydrochloric acid, were used in cosmetics for their bleaching and peeling effects. These substances can cause severe skin burns and damage the eyes and respiratory tract.
Allergens: Many historical and modern cosmetics contain substances that can cause allergic reactions. These can range from mild irritation to severe conditions like anaphylaxis. Common allergens include certain fragrances, preservatives, and dyes.
Hallucinogenics: Belladonna, a plant known as deadly nightshade, was used historically to dilate the pupils, giving the eyes a wide, "dreamy" appearance. However, belladonna is a powerful hallucinogen and can be deadly in high doses.
Endocrine disruptors: Certain modern cosmetics contain chemicals like parabens and phthalates, which can interfere with the body's hormonal system. These substances are often used as preservatives or to improve the texture of cosmetics, but they've been linked to a range of health problems, including reproductive issues and cancer.
In the modern era, regulations like the U.S. Food, Drug, and Cosmetics Act and the European Cosmetics Directive have been implemented to ensure the safety of cosmetics. However, many potentially harmful substances are still legally used in cosmetics, particularly in countries with less stringent regulations. Therefore, it's always a good idea to check the ingredients of any cosmetic product before using it.
Modern Era (1900 CE to present)
The 20th century saw a significant shift in societal attitudes towards cosmetics. As the influence of religion continued to wane in many societies, makeup became a standard part of everyday life for many women. The development of new cosmetic products and techniques rapidly accelerated, leading to the modern beauty industry.
In the 20th century, skincare pioneers like Estée Lauder and Dr. Erno Laszlo revolutionized the beauty industry with innovative products and treatments. Estée Lauder founded her eponymous beauty company in 1946 and developed a range of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and eye creams. Dr. Erno Laszlo, a Hungarian dermatologist, developed a range of customized skincare regimens for different skin types and concerns. The beauty industry continued to grow, focusing more on the science behind skincare. Dermatologists and other medical professionals began to develop skincare products backed by scientific research, and clinical trials became more common.
The skincare industry continues to grow and evolve, focusing more on natural and organic ingredients and advanced formulations targeting specific skin concerns. Some of the most popular skincare products today include serums, moisturizers, and sunscreens, all designed to help maintain healthy, youthful-looking skin.
Mass Market Brands coexist alongside Luxury Brands
Mass Market Brands:
Neutrogena: Owned by Johnson & Johnson, Neutrogena offers a wide range of skincare products for different skin types and concerns.
CeraVe: Known for its affordable, dermatologist-developed products that focus on repairing and strengthening the skin barrier.
Olay: A Procter & Gamble brand, Olay is renowned for its anti-aging products and extensive research into skincare technology.
Garnier: A brand under the L'Oréal group, Garnier offers a variety of skincare products that include natural ingredients.
Luxury Brands:
La Mer: Known for its high-end, cult-favorite Crème de la Mer, a moisturizer made with sea kelp and other ingredients.
Estée Lauder: A globally recognized brand offering a variety of luxury skincare, makeup, and fragrance products.
SK-II: A Japanese luxury beauty brand renowned for its skincare products that feature Pitera, a yeast fermentation product.
La Prairie: A Swiss brand known for its scientifically advanced, luxury skincare products.
In the modern era, skincare pioneers have continued to innovate and push the boundaries of beauty and wellness. Let's take a closer look at some of the pioneers of skin care in the modern era.
Dr. Howard Murad is a dermatologist and skincare expert who has developed a range of innovative products and treatments for the skin. He is known for his holistic approach to skincare, which focuses on nourishing the skin from the inside out. Murad's skincare philosophy centers around three pillars: hydration, antioxidants, and cell renewal. He developed a range of skincare products that address these pillars, including his famous Resurgence line, designed to boost cell renewal and improve skin elasticity.
Dr. Patricia Wexler is another pioneer of skincare in the modern era. She is a renowned dermatologist and skincare expert who has developed a range of innovative products and treatments for the skin. Wexler is known for her anti-aging skincare approach, which focuses on using science-based ingredients to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. She developed a range of skincare products that contain powerful anti-aging ingredients like retinol and glycolic acid, which can help improve skin texture and reduce the signs of aging.
Another pioneer of skincare in the modern era is Dr. Perricone, a dermatologist and skincare expert known for his innovative approach to skincare. Perricone's skincare philosophy centers around inflammation, which he believes is the root cause of many skin issues. He developed a range of skincare products that contain anti-inflammatory ingredients like vitamin C and omega-3 fatty acids, which can help reduce inflammation and improve the skin’s overall health.
In conclusion, the pioneers of skin care in the modern era, such as Dr. Howard Murad, Dr. Patricia Wexler, and Dr. Perricone, have significantly contributed to the beauty and wellness field. They have developed innovative products and treatments that address various skin concerns, from anti-aging to hydration and inflammation. By exploring their skincare philosophies and products, we can appreciate skincare's ongoing innovation and evolution and continue to push the boundaries of beauty and wellness.
Skincare has come a long way since ancient times, with advances in technology, medicine, and social norms shaping the industry. Sunscreen, developed in the 1930s, revolutionized how we protect our skin from UV rays and prevent skin cancer. Retinoids, introduced in the 1970s, have proven effective in reducing wrinkles, fine lines, and acne. Natural and organic skincare products have gained popularity in recent years as people seek to avoid harsh chemicals and synthetic fragrances.
In the 21st century, skincare pioneers like Dr. Howard Murad and Dr. Patricia Wexler have continued to innovate and push the boundaries of beauty and wellness. Dr. Murad is known for his holistic approach to skincare, which focuses on nourishing the skin from the inside out. Dr. Wexler is known for her anti-aging skincare approach, which focuses on using science-based ingredients to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
The skincare industry can be broken down into several subdivisions, including:
Face Care: The largest segment, face care, includes products like cleansers, moisturizers, serums, masks, and more.
Body Care: This includes products for the rest of the body, such as body washes, lotions, and body scrubs.
Sun Care: Products that offer protection from sun damage, such as sunscreens and after-sun care.
Hand Care includes hand creams, hand washes, and sanitizers.
Other: This includes specialized lip balms and eye care products.
The beauty industry has a long history, with several companies and brands dating back hundreds of years. Here are a few of the oldest:
Shiseido: Shiseido, a Japanese cosmetic company, is one of the oldest cosmetic companies in the world. It was founded in 1872 by Arinobu Fukuhara, a former head pharmacist in the Japanese Imperial Navy.
Pond's: Pond's Cream was invented in the United States as a patent medicine by pharmacist Theron T. Pond in 1846. It's now a beauty and healthcare product brand that Unilever owns.
Coty, Inc.: Coty founded by François Coty in Paris 1904. The brand is known for collaborating with designers and has introduced many famous perfumes.
L'Oréal: Founded in 1909 by Eugène Schueller, a young French chemist who developed a hair dye formula called Auréale, L'Oréal has become one of the largest cosmetics companies in the world.
Avon: Avon was founded by David H. McConnell in 1886 as a perfume company. It was initially called the California Perfume Company but was renamed Avon in 1939.
Yardley of London: Yardley was officially established in 1770, but its roots date back to the mid-1600s. Yardley initially specialized in soap and perfume production.
Santa Maria Novella: Founded in Florence, Italy, in 1612, Santa Maria Novella began as an apothecary set up by Dominican friars who made herbal remedies and potions. Today it is one of the oldest pharmacies in the world, producing a range of perfumes, soaps, and skincare products.
: Kiehl's began as an apothecary in New York City's East Village neighborhood in 1851. Today, it's a popular skincare brand offering a wide range of products.
These brands have had a significant impact on the industry and have helped to shape beauty standards and practices over the centuries. Their longevity is a testament to their ability to adapt and innovate in response to changing consumer needs and trends.
The future
The future of skincare pioneers looks promising, with new technologies and breakthroughs in the field paving the way for innovative products and treatments. One of the emerging trends in skincare is the use of stem cells, which can differentiate into different types of cells in the body. Stem cells have the potential to revolutionize the skincare industry by stimulating cell growth and renewal, promoting collagen production, and improving overall skin health.
Another emerging trend in skincare is near-infrared (NIR) light therapy, a non-invasive treatment that stimulates collagen production and improves skin texture. NIR therapy can also help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin elasticity.
In addition to these emerging trends, visionary skincare pioneers are also shaping the future of the field. One such pioneer is Dr. Barbara Sturm, a German physician and skincare expert who has developed a range of innovative products that use advanced technology and scientific research to improve skin health. Dr. Sturm's products include a range of serums, moisturizers, and cleansers customized for different skin types and concerns.
Another visionary in the skincare field is Dr. Harold Lancer, a Beverly Hills dermatologist who has developed a range of innovative skincare products and treatments used by Hollywood celebrities and beauty experts worldwide. Dr. Lancer's skincare approach uses science-based ingredients to improve skin health and promote cell renewal.
Overall, the future of skincare pioneers looks bright, with emerging technologies and visionary leaders driving innovation and growth in the industry. As we continue exploring the potential of stem cells, NIR therapy, and other emerging trends, we can look forward to a future where skincare is more advanced and effective. By staying informed and engaged with the latest developments in skincare, we can continue to push the boundaries of beauty and wellness and achieve our skin health goals.
Peptides are a type of protein that is composed of amino acids. In skincare, peptides improve skin health and address specific concerns such as fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone. Peptides work by signaling the skin to produce more collagen, which helps to plump up the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Peptide serums are a popular skin care product with high concentrations of peptides, which can be applied to the skin for targeted benefits.
The Korean skincare industry has significantly impacted global commerce and skincare trends in recent years. Known for its multi-step routines and innovative products, Korean skincare has become a popular trend worldwide. Korean skincare products often use natural ingredients such as green tea, ginseng, and fermented ingredients, which are believed to provide various benefits to the skin. The Korean skincare industry is known for using advanced technology, such as LED light therapy and innovative packaging.
The rise of Korean skincare has led to increased demand for Korean beauty products worldwide, driving growth in the global skincare market. Korean skincare has also influenced the development of new skincare trends, such as using sheet masks and incorporating multiple steps in skincare routines. Furthermore, the Korean skincare industry has sparked a renewed interest in skincare education. Many consumers are now seeking information on the best products and routines for their skin type and concerns.
Overall, the impact of the Korean skincare industry on global commerce and skincare trends has been significant, paving the way for innovative products and techniques that improve skin health and wellness. With the continued growth of the Korean skincare industry, we can expect to see even more exciting developments and innovations in the years to come.
According to Research and Markets, the global skincare market size was valued at USD 141.3 billion in 2019 and is projected to reach USD 185.5 billion by 2027, growing at a CAGR of 5.3% from 2020 to 2027. In terms of exports, the skincare industry is a significant contributor to the global economy, with many countries exporting skincare products to other regions.
For example, according to data from the World Bank, in 2019, South Korea's skincare exports accounted for approximately 0.45% of the country's total GDP. In the same year, Japan's skincare exports accounted for approximately 0.22% of the country's total GDP. However, it's worth noting that these figures may fluctuate from year to year, depending on various economic factors.
In addition to exports, the skincare industry contributes significantly to the global beauty industry, valued at over USD 532 billion, according to a report by Allied Market Research. The beauty industry includes many products, including skincare, makeup, hair care, and fragrance. The growth of the skincare and beauty industries is expected to continue in the coming years, driven by increasing consumer demand for innovative and effective products that improve skin health and appearance.
Conclusion
In conclusion, the evolution of skincare pioneers through the ages has played a significant role in the growth and development of the beauty industry. From Catherine de' Medici in the Renaissance period to Dr. Howard Murad in the 21st century, each era has produced pioneering figures contributing to skincare's ongoing innovation and evolution. By exploring the contributions of these pioneers, we can appreciate the long history and rich tradition of skincare and continue to innovate and improve the beauty and wellness field.
The history of skincare spans thousands of years, with natural ingredients and remedies being used to maintain healthy skin throughout the ages. Today, the skincare industry continues to evolve, focusing more on natural and organic ingredients and advanced formulations targeting specific skin concerns. Whether you prefer natural remedies or more advanced skincare products, many options are available to help you maintain healthy, youthful-looking skin.
Skincare is more than just a cosmetic concern; it reflects our culture, history, and values. By exploring the diverse and fascinating history of skincare, we can appreciate the creativity and ingenuity of our ancestors, as well as the ongoing quest for health and beauty. Whether you prefer ancient remedies or modern innovations, remember that caring for your skin is a timeless practice.
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